ABRUZZI - LAND, AGRICULTURE AND FOOD
In less than 11.000 square kilometres divided into four provincial districts of L'Aquila, Chieti, Pescara and Teramo, there is a land ranking among the most beautiful in Italy: hillsides, mountains, beaches and boasting three national parks where in an unpolluted environment one can come across chamois, foxes, wolves, wild boars, and the little Marsican bear often used as the symbol of the Region. But Abruzzi does not offer only landscape and wildlife. The land offers an overwhelming choice of colours, flavours, gastronomical delights and old time deliciousness.
Beginning with pasta: a must in the Mediterranean diet, manufactured in different shapes and sizes (spaghetti, rigatoni, shells, tagliolini alla chitarra, lasagne, sagnette etc. etc.). The Abruzzese pasta is made from wheat harvested in an unspoilt soil with no chemical treatments. Drawn through bronze machinery, slowly dried in open air and at low temperature, the Abruzzese pasta gives a stroke of energy together with a delight to taste.
From a deeply rooted agro-pastoral culture one should expect a wide range of cheese, hence: Pecorino, Caprino, Scamorza, Giuncate, Fiordilatte, Caciocavalli and Caciotte. Work methods change from one producer to another and obviously the specific taste helps to distinguish one from another. Pecorino the most popular is prepared with whole sheep milk; seasoning can take from a few months up to 2 or 3 years: but a real gourmand can taste a fresh pecorino after only a week.
Olive oil. The Abruzzi region boasts more than 45.000 hectares of olive groves. In blue - green scenery amongst the vineyards, the various types of fruit trees grow to produce an excellent oil that now is being protected by a special acknowledgement, the European D. O. P. (Protected Denomination of Origin).
From oil to wine. Hilly land, a good temperature range, sun exposure, a perfect climate suitable for grape growing, a wealth of crops and, last but not least, the advanced technology of the young producers carry out a large amount of fresh and fragrant wines: Number one is Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, an autochthonous vine that must be distinguished from the homonymous Montepulciano from Tuscany, a red wine with a strong but youngish character. Then there is Cerasuolo, a cherry coloured wine derived from Montepulciano grapes, a light wine suitable for light dishes such as those prepared with Adriatic fish. Trebbiano d'Abruzzo is the white wine, and the large choice of Controguerra wine completes the family of the D.O.C. of the Abruzzi.
Sausages. But, in Italy, one usually does not drink wine unaccompanied by food or snacks. A good companion to wine, indeed many good companions, are sausages. And Abruzzi offers a large choice. Lets start with "porchetta", an entire pork roasted with spices and aromatic herbs covered in crisp "pigskin". Followed by other specialities such as hot and spicy liver sausages, ventricina, lonza, and the small mortadelle from Campotosto, a real delicacy notwithstanding the nickname given due to its anatomical shape. Another well known sausage comes from Crognaleto a village in the Teramo Province: A ventricina made from a mixture of pork sweetbreads, garlic, orange peel, hot and sweet pepper, rosemary, and wood essences, food meant for the poor but much appreciated by the King of Naples.
From savoury to sweets- Honey and cakes. Honey of Abruzzo. Its unpolluted environment represents a paradise for millions of bees that offer the raw material for a virgin honey with a wide variety of flavours: Eucalyptus, acacia, citrus, chestnut, sunflowers, "millefiori" (a thousand flowers amongst which, of course, there is the honeysuckle). Cakes of Abruzzo. A fancy cake is "Parrozzo d'Abruzzo", the name derives from "Pane Rozzo" , a coarse grain bread, again a staple food of the poor, which with the passing of time has become an exquisite delicacy which inspired the Abruzzi's bard, the famous poet Gabriele d'Annunzio. Another specialty sweet is "Pan Ducale" made with marzipan and candied fruit. Appreciated since the Middle Ages as are the "confetti" of Sulmona, originally these sugar coated almond party favours were used in wedding and christening ceremonies are now a fantastic gift in assortment made also from honey, chocolate, candy, in all the colours of the rainbow.
Truffles. Not every gourmand in the world is aware yet that Abruzzi produces truffles. Black and white, fragrant and zesty ones. A production of 350 kilograms and 28 varieties make Abruzzi the richest "truffle region" in Italy. Savoured by the rich and noble until just before the II World War, and used by the Abruzzi shepherds as rennet for the pecorino cheese, today its ideal use for truffles is to be sprinkled on pasta, meat or egg dishes and to flavour oil, cheese and sausages.
Saffron. Saffron has been used in food for 3,500 years. After centuries, excellent saffron from the Navelli plains located in the province of l'Aquila, is today considered to be the best in the world even though its cultivation is limited to 8 hectares, producing approximately 80 kilos per year. In the past it was used as an analgesic, sedative, and antispasmodic medicament. Now. all over the world, it gives a unique taste and a golden yellow colour to well known "risotto" not to mention a number of other sophisticated culinary preparations with some aphrodisiacal side effects as a metropolitan legend tells.
